I've asked tons of questions over my time here and I could easily just copy and paste all of that in here to document my build so I figured it was time to do so.

My Bronco is a 1975 Ranger. It was a mint condition, all original, uncut Bronco when I bought it in 1993. I drove it daily until 2000 when I purchased a new to me truck. It had dealer installed A/C, a good stereo that was nicely installed, carpet, etc. Bottom line, it was way too nice to have handed to a 17 year old, but that is based on today's knowledge. Back then, it wasn't even 20 years old.

I put a K Bar S 2.5" lift on in 94 or 95. It hasn't sagged (insert shockedface here). I also put a NP435 in around the same time. I have a ton of great memories with it.

Over the years, I've taken it up Holy Cross and Carnage Canyon (Left Hand Canyon) and beaten the heck out of the rockers.

So, a year ago, I blew out a wheel bearing on the front end and decided it was time to finally make the swap to disc brakes. I had only held on to the 78/79 knuckles since the late 90's (got them for free from a guy on the Co4x4 board). While doing that, I realized that my tie rods were shot, so I upgraded those to the 1-tons since I was able to take advantage of RuffStuff's Black Friday deal.

Current stuff/looking forward - I picked up a 97 Explorer motor complete with the idea of replacing the really worn out, but original, engine that is in there. I started the process to install the 1" body lift and found that the previous owner had put down 16 or 14 gauge metal since the original floors had long since rusted away. I kind of knew that things weren't right but had never bothered to really look into it. I purchased a welder and have started practicing with the idea that I will replace the floors, inner/outer rockers, door posts and kick panels. Then, I will jump back to the engine and get that in.

I picked up the floor pans from Bronco Hut last week. This weekend, I'm hoping to start getting the drivers side floor cut out and cleaned up. If I can get that at least in place, I can then have a place to put a brace in order to tackle the door post and kick panel.

Thanks to everyone who has offered advice on all my projects. I haven't been steered wrong yet.

I've attached a before/after pick of the body lift here, just cause, pictures. Two notes, yes, it sucks when you lose a crush sleeve to the hole in the frame. I still haven't gotten it out yet and I've tried the magnet on the hose and the shop vac methods. I might just have to admit defeat and find/order up another one. Second, the passenger side body mount right behind the seat is just painful due to the exhaust shield being in the way. Not a lot of space to work with.

I'll keep this post updated with pics and stories of the adventure!

Very nice Bronco

I love build threads!

Looking forward to updates

Good luck with the project !

Thanks. Anyone know if you can find one of those crush sleeves locally? Or do I need to order up from WH since I'm using their 1" body lift?

Started in on the drivers side floor today. I need to find an air hammer to separate the old floor from the channel. I have the chisels but my dad can't find the hammer in his garage.

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My $10 harbor freight air hammer is junk but gets the job done. Looks like progress!

Lobobronco texted me and is willing to let me borrow his. I'm going to have to buy him a keg here pretty soon. :-)

What type of screws have folks used to get the floors in at first? Did you pre drill the new sheet metal with a slightly larger hole so you could adjust the fit? That's what seems to make sense to me.

Predrilling out larger might work, but probably isn't necessary. Just get the new metal sitting right, maybe vice grip it in a couple places if you can. Then start stabbing it with regular self drilling sheetmetal screws. Pull them & redo it if it isn't fitting right. Start with the screws far apart & just get the panel right. After you know its sitting right fill between and pull all the seams tight.

I predrill the holes larger, both for more welded area and to allow some wiggle as I get the fit right. It's only a few minutes extra work if you've got a drill press. x3 on self drilling sheet metal screws. I like the ones with broad heads.

To be clear, I'd predrill all your spot weld points to 5/16" before fitting & screwing the new panel down. I'd put spot welds every 4" or so. I'd drive sheet metal screws between each spot weld point, or more, whatever it takes to pull the metal layers tight. If you can't get the floor fit tight to the braces before screwing down, predrilling the screw holes with some wiggle room wouldn't hurt.

Thanks. Makes sense. I think. :-) Justin, I might give you a shout when I get it fitted to ask some questions.

We're working on dan's floorboards today if you want to come over.

After a few hours here and there (to a total of around 8), I got the old drivers side pans out and the new ones screwed in. Things are fitting very nicely. Needed to stop before I could weld it in for some family time.

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Looks great! Are you planning to replace the pitted part of the tunnel?

Looks like a good fit. Nice.

Justin is right about the bad metal on the transmission tunnel. It will probably be easier to cut & weld in a patch panel than trying to weld that rusty metal.

I'd consider making the holes for your spot welds larger. I either drill or punch to 5/16".

I use a tool like this a lot at work. The tool will make a stepped flange with one side & punch 5/16" holes with the other. The link is just for reference, first example I got via google, not a recommendation for the store.

http://www.usaweld.com/5-16-Pneumatic-C ... /12066.htm

The metal is pitted but seems pretty solid. I was just going to put it in as is. I'll take a look at replacing the tunnel. I'll have to look at the other side. I'm not sure anyone makes a replacement for just the tunnel though.

If I do the tunnel, I will be living up to the downward spiral name. :) Also, if I go this far, I'll replace the channel since I cut that out when I did the install of my NP435 so long ago. My fear is to do this right, I would need to yank the transmission/transfer case.

The holes are 5/16. I used a step bit in the drill press to make them. I'll look at the tool you mentioned. Might need to see if I can find an example on YouTube.

I do have a big sheet of 18ga metal sitting here so I guess I could just cut out that piece.

Thanks!

I'd consider just replacing the individual side.

You could even just replace the bottom 1/2 of the panel if you aren't stressed about what your floors look like.

I think welding to that metal will be messy and aggravating.

After watching a few clips on YouTube, that totally makes sense. I'll have to do this which sucks cause I thought I was on the home stretch for this side. Glad I didn't try to weld it earlier.

Knowing that I need to do the kick panel, door post and inner/outer rocker panels, am I better off leaving everything screwed together until I get everything in?

Very much appreciate the advise given so far. I wouldn't even be this far along without it most likely.

I'd just patch the rusty part. Wire wheel till you get to good metal. Patch, stitch weld, then grind the welds smooth with a flap wheel. If the body is well aligned I'd weld then move on to the next part of the project.

Go ahead and weld it in, unless major kick panel or door pillar adjustment is necessary. You can really still do lots of adjusting even with it in place.

Progress is made! Took Gunni's and Justin's advice and cut out the pitted area around the tunnel. The metal looked pretty thick when it came out but I'm sure they were right and it would have been painful to weld to. In addition, I was able to clean things up a bit better.

Cut out two new pieces of sheet metal from a large piece I had and welded in the tunnel. I practiced on a few pieces of 18ga scrap to get the welder set up right. This actually came out much better than I had thought it would. I only blew through once and I was able to go back and fill it in after it cooled. A quick hit with a flap disc and it looked good for a guy who has less than 8 hours of welding time under his belt.

Next, re-fitted the floor boards and screwed them down. Then started welding it in. The floors are in and everything is really firm and nice.

Now I'm trying to decide whether to tackle the drivers side rockers, kick panel and door post or if I should flip the Bronco around and do the passenger side floor pans. Thoughts?

Nice fit, looks good. Glad you seem to have a straight crossmember/bodymount to start with. Mine was a mess.

I'd probably do the other floor first. But you could do the rest of the driver side, if you want.

Thanks Gunni. Really appreciate your advise. Really happy with how it came out. Still need to seam seal it. I'm taking my time to get it as close to right as I can.

Looks great. Very nicely done.

Made some progress on the passenger side today. Ran out of grinding discs and burned out a HF cutoff tool while doing it. Wife is out on errands so I can't go to the store due to watching the boys. Very close to having it all out in 2-3 hours which isn't bad since the drivers side took me 6-8 hours. I must be getting better. :)

Pics!

Looking sharp !

That looks awesome!!!
Keep up the good hard work!!!
The satisfaction of doing your own work is really incredible, anybody can whoop out their pocketbook, great job!

Made some progress today. Had hoped to get the passenger side welded in but came up short on time. Got it all screwed in though.

Also stripped all the electrical tape off of the engine harness for the Explorer motor.

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