What did that come out of?

Just run a couple micro lam beams under your floor joists and you will be all set for the new table. Oh and if you ever move and want to take the table with you....I'm busy that weekend


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That engine just needs a rat rod project to stuff it in!


So this happened late last night...I wanted to run it longer but the radiator decided it didn't want to hold coolant. Intake leaks coolant as well.

Garry- I've got a radiator that doesn't leak that I had the inlet/outlet switched for serpentine that you can have/use. I had some overheating issues with my 351 but it'd get you running and might be fine for a 302. Let me know.

I still have my old 4core also.

Congrats Garry !

I saw a more fitting V10 block at Summit a few hours ago. Looks a lot lighter than the V16.
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Yeah but that's a Dodge, my wrenches don't swing that way.

Well do we get an update?

I've also got a complete GT40 intake that I'm not going to use and some random fuel hard lines. You might consider doing the sliders before paint. It's a 1 day job at worst if the metal around it is in decent shape and it'll save you re-painting down the road.

Well thanks to Adam, I now have the Gt40 lower!

Justin, if either of those rails are from a 96-98 Explorer I'd definitely buy them off you. I must have 4 or 5 sets of rails here, just not the ones I want.

I'm not sure which way I'll go with the sliders yet, but I'll figure it out before paint. 2x6 sounds cheap and do-able. But, I also kind of like these since they go up a little higher and look decent:

Those are good looking sliders

I can do sliders that sit higher than that and give more clearance. Those don't raise the height of the bottom of the rocker the way 2x6 would. 2x6 can be done right at the bottom of the door.

Thanks for the heads up on UPAP! If it's not too miserable I might go down there then.

More clearance would be another advantage for 2x6, we might have to chat about that Justin.

Rob, I can't remember how bad yours leaked (I've tried 4 now), but I didn't try to repair any of them yet. I caught a black friday deal on an aluminum one already setup for the newer front dress So I just pulled the trigger on it... And then found out you can get the same one on E-bay for $100 less.

Which one did you go with?

If your rig is going to be more of a street cruiser with some mild offroad thrown in, what you pictured will be perfect. But if you are looking to do some moderate to challenging stuff, the extra clearance of a "rocker free" rig will come in very handy. My rockers were the first thing to get mangled on my rig.

Well, finally got some time to work on it. A couple weeks ago Viperwolf, ZOSO and ECK came over to help. I ended up fighting with my laptop the whole day trying to tune their Broncos while they worked on stripping mine to prep it for EFI. Thanks again guys!

During the tear down, we noticed a lot of "questionable stuff". Such as very liberal use of silicone, lots of bolts finger tight, and this intake gasket.



Even worse, we discovered the lack of an oil pump driveshaft.:o
I thought for sure I primed it, even brought the tool home from work to do so. The more I think about it, I think I was about to do it but my drill battery was dead and I stopped for the night and forgot about it the next day. It sucks getting old and losing your memory. As many cars as I work on they blend together in my mind anymore.

Now I didn't run the engine for very long because coolant was pouring out of the radiator. There was no way I was going to try and break in a cam like that. I probably only ran it for about 45 seconds. But, that doesn't mean the PO didn't run it that way as well. With all that we had seen, the decision was quickly made to pull it out and inspect.

Yesterday D&D72 came over and helped with that task. He even let me use hand tools and fetch beer instead of arguing with computers. Thanks John!



Along the way, we found many other "questionable practices". Missing a pressure plate bolt? Got a welder?:o



We started by pulling caps and checking bearings. The bearings definitely looked like they had more than my 45 seconds of run time on them. But the crank actually looked pristine. I was impressed. However, while turning the crank over I noticed what looked like pitting in the bottom of one of the cylinders. So, off came the heads...



Yulp, it's that ugly. The funny thing is the rust at the top of the pistons in the pictures seems to be mixed with the extra silicone, it just wiped right off.

It's a bummer, but I'm not too upset. That's not the motor I wanted to run anyway. But, I had hoped it would get me by for now. I think the engine was actually a fresh build, block looked like it had been tanked, crank is a pristine 10 over, pistons look like pretty fresh 60 overs, freeze plugs looked fresh, it even had new ARP head bolts. But, it must have set outside and ingested water. Even if it wasn't 60 over I have a hard time justifying rebuilding an early block. At least I just saved a bunch of money by not sending my balancer to Damper Dudes.

Now for some good news...I've got an Atlas on the way! Buying that stopped me from getting a high mileage V10 and 5r110, but the price was right.

If anyone needs an early crank or entire rotating assembly for an early block, free, come and get it! Or maybe a $50 set of heads?

Interesting discoveries.

That welding on the pressure plate

But DANG, an Atlas! You have peaked my interest.

Bummer. In theory I'll have a spare, relatively low mile 302 with good compression available soon.

Garry, do you need an entire motor or would a short block work? I have that Explorer short block that passes your finger nail test. Let me know. It's what the lower that you got from me came from.

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Roller 351 in your future? I could help with the scouting & pulling.