I apologize for starting another thread, but with so many variations on these old steeds, there is no one-size fits all method on them. So I hope to gather information from our club experts on decisions I'll be making throughout this process.

As you might have seen in my fuel pump thread, my dad has removed the motor and has plans to get it to Denver soon, perhaps as early as Wednesday.

That being said, he sent me the following pics of one the the motor mounts. I wanted to get opinions on this and to allow someone else to confirm the application. Pardon the oily mess. My bronco doesn't leak so I don't know where that came from!







It appears that these are from the donor 1995 F-250 based on pictures I am seeing on Rockauto.com. Speaking of which, they range anywhere from $4ea to $12. Any reason not to just replace these for good measure? At that price, I have to ask if I am buying something that will give me problems later or since these are rather simple parts then I should be ok.

Thanks!

I would replace them. Just get some stock mounts for an early Bronco from any local parts store...


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x2. Cheap on

Ok, will do!

There are stock motor mounts with and without a through bolt or rivet, you want a mount with the through bolt. In the pics, you'll see an extra bolt through the rubber part of the mount. The bolt will prevent it from completely separating if the mount goes bad. I bought the Westar 2329, they have the bolt.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the advice Chad. But now I'm not sure what I need to order...

The ones on Rock auto appear to be correct (non symmetrical) and I found a catalog for the Weststar that also appears to be correct, but I am confused that it doesn't list the same applications that rockauto does. I still think the EM2329 is correct, but I just find it odd that 86 is the newest year for these mounts.

I *think* they were all the same. But on Amazon, they 'don't fit a 1999 F250' either. It could just be a problem with Westar's cross ref. I've seen it before.

The are installed & fine on my 302 block in my truck right now.

Sounds great. Thanks!

You are correct. I have 99 Superduty in 'my vehicles' because my 02 Superduty has a 99 motor. I was lazy and just pulled up the first F250 in the list, without thinking. Still lists as does not fit a 1990 or 1995 F250, fwiw.

The Weststar mounts in general aren't getting good reviews. But nothing except the Ford part is. I should see if I can dig up the Ford part number and go hunting for that. Sounds like they are 8 times the price of these.

Confirmed... Part # E8TZ-6038-G - cheapest is $60+ for one.

What are options I should consider when rebuilding this motor? I don't need extra ponies. I just want uber-reliability. But my dad mentioned checking the pricing on balancing. I see the benefits of it, but if it's hundreds of dollars to do, then I think I'll pass.

What else? Thanks!

Good to know especially since the flywheel didn't make the trip to Denver. And $200 seems like money well spent!

So for stock internals, balancing the rotating assembly isn't necessary? Are they balanced at the factory?

Thanks Phil! I am trying to consider all options.

I'm on the hunt for a new oil pan. Mine has a dual sump setup, which seems to be factory for a 5.0L. What I am trying to accomplish is to get rid of the dip-stick port in it. This one has also taken a beating from the diff. I don't think that will happen again since I've pushed the axle forward, but I need something with a similar profile to what is on there to be certain I don't create more issues.

What's your advice?

Here's my original pan:

The machine shop requires the Flex Plate to be able to balance the assembly. If I can get it to Denver on time, I think it might be worth the $225 to get it done.

My dad's still working away. He has both the P4070 Carter fuel pump and the E2000 HP pump installed.

I ordered an oil pan from rockauto for a 1991 ltd crown vic 5.8l for $47 shipped. It looks the same as what I have, with no extra ports aside from the two drain plugs!! I am hoping it fits well!

Also, my dad said that he had trouble getting the accessory belt off, even after the tensioner was loosened. I am waiting on him to send me a picture, but perhaps I could pick your brains to see what I might be able to change so that it functions better??

Results are in from the machine shop. cylinders are a little out of round, so we're boring .02 over to correct it. Aside from that, they say everything else looks good!

My engine should be ready for pickup Tuesday (2/28) from the machine shop! Wooohoo!!

I have another question. My dad said that the serp belt was awful hard to remove, even with the tensioner fully released. I vaguely remember that as well. What are some options to remedy that? I don't have a picture of the actual front dress, but below is a sketch my dad made in order to put it back the way it was.

I don't know if that is of any help, but perhaps there is some ideas floating around out there...

Thanks!

A slightly longer belt maybe.

I mentioned that to my dad, but if I understand him correctly, the belt may rub on itself. I'm not sure of that, and I wish I had some pictures before he took it all off. I was just polling to see what my options were.

Thanks for your info!

There is also a small(er) idler pulley available

The one that is on the passenger side right above frame crossmember

My uncle just so happens to have a '95 F-250 he uses as a service truck. Not that it matters much, but here's the actual diagram of the belt routing from that truck:


Sorry it's upside down. I've edited that in photobucket and it's not correcting on this end...

EFIguy is setting me up with a chip, so I am gathering intel for him. I could use someone to verify I am getting the right info. These are some of the parts he's requesting numbers from. Have I got these correct? Again, sorry for the upside down pics! Taken from an Iphone...

IAC:


PCM:

Throttle Body:


What's this?


I may need help with Firing Order, Injectors and Compression ratio.

Last pic is EGR valve.