Ok, I've been wanting to do this conversion since I got my EB five years ago, but with all of the "options" out there I've been unsure as to which route to take. This is mostly street driven, but I'm looking to do more light to moderate off-road. I've researched the conversion kits out there and can handle that level of work. I'm willing to spend the money for a kit, but also interested if there's a more cost effective method that others would recommend.

Currently I have a 1975 EB mostly stock with 3" lift, Dana 40 with 33" tires, power boosted brakes w/ drums all around. The route I'm leaning toward is:
-Front brake conversion kit from TBP or WH
-New Warn Hubs
-New ball joints, u-joints, bearings, etc


-Any thoughts on which kit is better?
-Do I need a new proportioning valve with disk/drum combo (some threads say it's not needed)?
-Any DIY conversions a better option for the price and effort to collect the mish-mash of parts?
-Can I use my current master cylinder?


Thanks for any input you may have. Scott

no proportioning valve needed. New master cylinder needed. any of the kits available from a vendor are good. I'd suggest ditching the vacuum boost and go hydro boost. Much better set-up and what 95% of us run.

The most cost effective disc brake conversion is the Chevy Conversion. I did this years ago sourcing parts from junkyards when I could. If you go this route, I know I had trouble with the flex lines to each caliper. There were/are two brands, Bendix and Cardone. One works and one hits the c-bushings pinching the lines. With my luck, I got the bad ones and had to drive most of a trail without brakes!

In regards the master cylinder, you might need to change it. I've heard with the Chevy calipers you can keep the stock master and it will work fine. If the current master is old, you might need to remove the residual pressure valve but that's not a huge deal. You can find the steps on CB.com. If you have a newer one (almost anything in the last 10-15 years) it probably doesn't have the residual valve in it.

I kept my stock 75 master when I did the swap but I went the all-Ford route since I had the parts sitting there and upgraded to the T-Bird calipers. My pedal is good but a bit softer than I like. I'll upgrade to a master with a larger bore (like 1 1/16 or 1 1/8) to bring back some of the "firmness" to the pedal.

I would probably do the swap, see how the pedal feels then decide if you want to change the master (or need to) but that's cause I'm cheap and I hate doing anything with the brakes. :)

FYI, the Ford lock out hubs are very good. Some would say better than the aftermarket. So if yours are still working, I'd save the money and keep them.

I actually am running manual disc brakes on all 4 corners with a stock master.

i used the kits from Toms. I kept them manual. Toms kits came with a per portioning valve and stock master cylinder. Used on both Broncos. Been running them for about 12 years.

I found a 76 front axle and put it in. I kept the same master cylinder, I did not need a prop. valve. I added extended brake lines, but everything else stayed the same.

I just did the eBay kit recently and was very pleased with how everything went together. I cant remember his name off hand, but he was very knowledgeable and helpful. Freight was less than the other guys and he customized my kit to allow me to put the proportioning vavle next to the MC. I did get a new MC from Toms as well.

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Scott, my $.02

In the long run I prefer the Ford disk brake conversion vs. the Chevy conversion, although it is more work and expense.

My primary reasons are:
1. The Ford brakes stop a little bit better than the Chevy brakes.
2. The Ford disk knuckles have a larger hole in them, so if you plan to wheel and might break a front axle shaft, then it is MUCH easier to get a busted shaft out of the bigger hole.

In just about no case am I going to order a kit from a manufacturer and pay the $$$ for shipping. You can buy the knuckle/spindles reasonably locally, then source your own hub/rotor setup and calipers/pads/hoses. There are lots of links to the conversion.

Your post indicated you wanted to put in new ball joints, etc... anyway, so that would reduce most of the additional cost of the Ford setup vs. the Chevy.

A. Change the master cylinder, then 78/9 Bronco one is a good replacement with PB.
B. No prop valve usually needed. Remember, the EB does not have one, merely an "imbalance warning indicator", and it seldom works like it should any more. If it really is an issues, it's easy to add one (really just a bias reducer).

So....
1. Pick up a knuckle/spindle setup used.
2. Add '76-79 hub/rotor.
3. Add same calipers/pads/hoses.
4. The tie rod end hole in the knuckle is a little bigger than stock. So:
a. Order sleeves from BCBroncos
b. Upgrade to bigger tie rod ends.
5. No need to fix the hubs.

OR....
Pick up a disk brake D-44 locally and source the parts from it. This would also allow you to upgrade to the bigger U-joints (297 vs. 260). Moser can cut down the long side axle for @$65, short side fits right in. Then you could sell the housing and make some $$ back.

Probably more than you wanted...
Joe

I bought a '79 axle from a junkyad, took everything from the outers out and resold the rest. Replaced the calipers with t-bird ones for pretty cheap and then found an Astro in a local yard and grabbed the booster. The first time I backed it out of the garage I hit the brakes and chirped the tired in the drive. I giggled like a school girl. It stops almost like a modern car, love it. I did pull the residual pressure valve but ran the stock MC.