Community,

As a kid I had a cherry Baby Blue '73 Bronco that I let go on a whim and I regretted it ever since; for 20+ years. I recently saved a '73 EB from the graveyard! I was told the engine and tranny were shot. After some tinkering it now runs and drives. My kids love it but it smokes so bad and with holes in the floor pans we don't drive it as much as we'd like, so I'm aiming to restore it for them/ and in honor of my best friend Joseph Patrick McDonald, who died a few years back. Joe liked my old cherry '73 probably more than I did.

I am a passionate mechanic by hobby and good with the things I've learned & taught myself... in what little free time I have; but also maintain a full-time job, am single and raising a 2 & 4 year-old by myself; so I really don't have the time to do all the tedious shimming/backlash checking/trial and error chunk stuff. Since one of my outer-axle wheel bearings is definately shot...can I assume all the pinion/carrier bearings are shot as well? I had what looked like 'Mississippi Mud' coming out of the pumpkin when I loosened the chunk.

I also had play from one wheel to the other.. Before draining any fluid or removing old drums, I lifted the rear of the vehicle and when I spun one wheel, I had about 1/2" play before the other wheel began spinning in the same direction as the one I was spinning. Is this play normal?(my 5.9L ZJ only has about 1/8" to 1/4"of play)... or is the diff shot??

I know I can rebuild this chunk with all new bearings if needed and inspect for cracking and wear in all the gears etc... but having never done it before I fear it will take me forever-and-a-day to get it back together and running again. Is there anyone well versed on drivelines has done this successfully before, and anywhere near Denver/Englewood, COLORADO ...who can walk me through the process in person//show me the path// for beer LOL ..or recommend an affordable shop? Now that I've dropped the whole axle housing, I don't want to put it back together until I know it's right. For the benefit of someone who may help, I have not dismantled the pinion or any part of the chunk...it is out and waiting.

Once this issue is resolved then can move on to other things like the tranny who won't shift to 3rd until it's warm. ...And then maybe an Explorer power plant swap.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice,

Henry

welcome! Unfortunately, that’s not something I can help with but there are some serious wrench studs in this club, and they are generous with info (and time, when they have it). Make your way to breakfast in a couple weeks, and you’ll meet a few. See ya - Scott

Still learning the site... How do I delete a mistakenly quoted post??

Many of us know them well. I will be building a new 9in in the coming weeks. The 9in is the simplest diff to setup. There is no pressing bearings on and off to select different shims. I will advise the #1 thing to do is get a shim crush spacer. They are somewhat expensive ($45) for what you get but it's cheap security if you wheel it or run it hard.

Not really any negatives, just takes a little longer to setup.

I highly recommend one. I had to drive the last 100 miles of a vacation towing a camper in front wheel drive because the crush sleeve got squashed and the pinion lost all preload.

Yup. Place high amounts of torque on the crush sleeve and there is a chance you can collapse it.

A cheaper crush sleeve eliminator. I found this when looking at rebuilding my Sterling 10.5 in my F250. They were recommended on the diesel forums. I didn't end up using them so I can't vouch.

http://www.ratechmfg.com/pop_up_order%204105.htm

Welcome to the club! As to maintenance on the axle, sometimes it's nice to have a fresh start, as in pull it apart and replace all wear items. Then you know what's been done and what hasn't. I don't recall if the 9" came factory with a limited slip or not, but that could be why you have more roll in one tire before the other catches. If it were open, the other tire would spin the opposite direction.

Limited slips were always an option even for early '66. The limited slip adds an extra splined member which increases the slop factor.

Welcome aboard. If you’re available on Saturday- the club breakfast will be as good a place as any to have multiple knowledgeable people to take a look at it if you are able to bring it.

X2

I can look at it anytime just as soon as you post some pictures of it.

Wow, you found that in a junkyard? That's pretty nice indeed!

Anyone have a damn bearing-puller??? Dismantled the chunk and a good thing,there was serious galling on one carrier bearing cone/race! Spinning my wheels last night trying to remove 3 bearing races...1pinion, 2 carrier. Looks like I may be able to drive the carrier races out after I dismantle the diff itself and remove the posi clutches; but I definitely cannot get the pinion bearing race without a 2 arm static puller.

I have what you need, you’re more than welcome to bring your pieces by and use it, I’m in Parker.

2F3282AC-F4F9-4E56-9BA3-D9D2A0F71189.jpeg8C7D358B-AC8B-40A3-AF5B-81C4F070C226.jpegAnyone have POSI parts for the 9”? A differential clutch spring is broken in half, and the spring cage/ retainer/whatchamacallit is cracked. II’m ready to get this thing back together!!

Please HELP if you can!! Or at least tell me what the parts are called/nomenclature

There is a guy that advertises 9" parts on Craigslist. Somewhere North of denver.