Ok, I started reassembling the front grill and testing the lights now that I've got the cowl done. Got brake lights working and turn signals in the rear working. Headlights come one and front turn signals work. I don't get any parking lights though. In addition, when I turn on the headlights they will shine bright for a second, then start flickering. When the flickering is happening the Ammeter bounces all over the place. Almost like I have a short (maybe I do?) but the no parking lights is the weird part to me.

From looking at the wiring diagram, the parking lights should use the same ground as the turn signals. So, to me, it seems like a power source issue. Am I heading down the right track? Just looking for some wisdom before getting too deep into it.

Thanks!

No park lights in front or rear or both, with or without headlights on?

Flickering headlights could be poor ground.

Sounds like a short somewhere in the park light circuit. You can isolate the rear harness from the rest by unplugging it where it comes through the firewall.

Pulled the rear harness and no change. Also disconnected all of the lights on the front and it still makes the ammeter gauge go . Inspected the wires up to the firewall and everything looks good. Now I get to dive under the dash. Wondering if my light switch is just bad. I know the interior light adjustment part of it is bad so I'll just pull it to replace. I'm thinking I can then jump wires to test if it is the switch or something else.

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I think I might have my old switch if you need it.


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Could be switch.

Did some testing and now I'm confused more. I definitely know it's the parking light circuit causing the issues. I was able to jump from the B post to the H post on the headlight switch and the headlights come on and the ammeter stays steady.

Here's where I am confused. Picture of the headlight switch:



I believe, the parking light circuit is "R" but I'm not 100% on that. There are two wires that go into that spot. One of them appears to go to the brake switch attached to the pedal. The part that confuses me is it is 12v hot even with the headlight switch off. If I uses my meter set to Continuity, I get nothing between "B" and "R" on the switch itself unless I turn on the dimmer.

Can someone help me out with what each post is supposed to do? I'll continue to do some Googling but so far, my results have been less than good. Really trying not to unwrap the entire dash harness which is where I am heading right now. I need to try and find better elimination spots so I can narrow this down.

Thanks!

More detail. The "R" is the parking light circuit. The wire going to the brake switch comes from "A".

I disconnected every light and still see the ammeter peg negative. I disconnected the rear harness as well. I tested connectivity to the front wires and only see 0.2 ohms of resistance from the headlight plug to the parking light plug. That's consistent side to side. Given I have a short, I'm not sure that matters. That said, if I test continuity from the headlight plug to ground, I get nothing.

Short of peeling back a lot of the loom, which doesn't show any worn spots, I'm at a loss. Based on the wiring diagram the emergency flashers should be eliminated by disconnecting the front/rear parking lights and should just leave me with the brown wire.

Just trying to process this "verbally". Thanks for reading.

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There is a thermal breaker inside the switch, actually 2 breakers, one for headlights and one for everything else (park, brake, dash) Could be the breaker has gone bad.
headlight sw connector.JPG
headlights 1.jpg

Even without a painless harness, their install guide can be very helpful.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10113.pdf?