Creating this thread to document what's been done and ask questions about anything that may pop up in the process.

I've finally begun to gather parts for a 6R80 conversion. Going to be a little different than most, because I'm keeping my EFI SBF for now. I've decided to opt for this trans as opposed to an AOD or 4r70w due to the very low first gear, which is awesome for a crawler, new technology and likely future innovation especially because this transmission also comes in GT mustangs. Its very strong, and the length sealed the deal, its hardly longer than a 4 speed. If you're not familiar with this transmission yet, here is a small fact sheet from advance adapters.

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Ford 6R80 transmission

The Ford 6R80 transmission is an impressively strong, band free, 6 speed automatic transmission modeled after the renowned and respectable ZF 6HP26 six speed automatic transmission.

The 6R80 was first introduced in 2009 and is manufactured under ZF license at the Ford Transmission Plant in Livonia, Michigan. It can be found behind a multitude of Ford engines ranging from the 3.7 V-6, all the way up to the robust 6.2L V-8. While the transmission is offered in several engine applications, each transmission variation is integrated differently depending on engine and vehicle application.

The 6R80 features a durable, dependable, band-free design, equating to less complexity than its earlier four speed predecessors. Ford also revised the transmission to improve even smoother shifts and improved fuel economy versus the original ZF 6HP26. Most noteworthy of the improvements was the addition of a 1 way clutch that offers smoother 1-2 upshifts and 2-1 downshifts. The transmission utilizes five clutch packs and a single one-way clutch to achieve six forward gear ratios, whereas earlier four speed units use six or more clutches/bands to achieve only four gears. The 6R80 also features lockup torque converter capabilities in all 6 gears and an integrated Tow/Haul mode for increased towing performance and braking. The transmission has a respectable low 1st gear of 4.17:1 which also provides for increased towing performance and offroad capabilities. The 6R80 offers two overdrives, the highest of which is 0.69:1. The double overdrive maximizes fuel economy by offering lower engine RPM at cruising speeds. The transmission's over all gear ratio spread is ideal, offering an impressive ratio spread of 6.04:1 from first to sixth gear. The 2nd through 6th gear ratios are impressively close together. This creates incredibly smooth shifts and increased reliability.

Although the 6R80 has 6 forward gears, the transmission is only slightly larger than earlier four-speed automatics. The transmission is without question stronger than earlier Ford 4 speed transmissions. The 6R80 can likely handle up to 1000HP with proper ECU tuning and potentially even more with the implementation of aftermarket components

The 6R80 uses synthetic transmission fluid (Mercon LV). The transmission used in the Ford F-150, has a fluid capacity of 12.10 quarts and weighs 215lbs. The 6R80 measures 23.75" and utilizes a large 31 spline 4wd output shaft. In 2011 Ford removed the internal TCU enabling the usability of stand-alone computers

6-6speeds

R- Rear wheel drive

80- Ford Motor Co. strength designation. Nominal max input torque 590lb-ft

6R80 Transmission Ratios: 4.17, 2.34, 1.57, 1.14, 0.87, and 0.69:1.

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Down to parts and what will be needed.

6R80 4x4 w/ 5.0 bellhousing- pulled from a 2014 F-150 with 71k, front end wreck. Tested and works.
Quick 6 controller- purchased.
Bellhousing to SBF adapter- https://site.matthillmotorsports.com/co ... ne-adapter
Torque converter spacer - https://site.matthillmotorsports.com/co ... r-for-6r80
Shifter- Winters gated, will need to grind gates and limit throw. P R N are all the same.
Crossmember- Fab.
Transfer Case adapter- ?
Driveshafts
Cooler- need entire new cooler system, 6R80 fluid does not jive with anything previous. https://site.matthillmotorsports.com/co ... 5-x-13-x-2
Cooler adapter - https://site.matthillmotorsports.com/co ... ne-adapter
Dipstick - https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Auto ... B07C1GX5C8


Possible mods to exhaust and floorboard. No body lift.

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That's cool. I'm really interested in how this will fit, I know how much I had to cut to make a ZF5 fit without a body lift.

Looking forward to the progress updates as well

Definitely interested in seeing this swap!

I know nothing about transmissions but will enjoy seeing the thread on the fab/installation!

Awesome!

Subscribed!

IN!

I love new and uncharted territory!!

Should be interesting to follow along on this journey.

Thanks for the support guys. Got a call today from Jake over at Baumann Controllers, my Quick6 is being built now and should have it in a week or two.

Side note, if anybody comes across the adapters I need for this swap in the pre-owned market, please let me know. I'm hoping someone bails on they're coyote swap and has the TC adapter in their new parts pile.

I have heard of another guy mating one to a 408w but can't find much info other than that. Rumor has it BC Bronco's is working on a similar build as well, I need to call them and see if they have some pointers as well.

Ping Robert Warke of CBM. I believe he just put one behind his 460SBF.

It's been a bit but I am plugging away at this project.

All the parts have been decided, and mostly ordered. I've added a bit to it, running new hard lines for the fuel lines and trans cooler to clean up the look, as well as applying chassis saver to everything on the underside. The trans will likely go in/out a few times to find out where everything is going to land before I start plumbing lines, painting will happen after that's all wrapped up.

Parts list I have so far:
6R80
Performance Automatic bellhousing and torque converter spacing. (I am aware of a slight modification that may or may not be needed on the TC nose extension. Others have been .008 too long)
Advance Adapters Atlas adapter, to achieve a standard 6 bolt round pattern.
Magnum 205 transfer case, built it myself.
B&M locking dipstick, these transmissions do not come with one.
Cooler adapter to -10AN

At the current stage, c4 is out and I've begun cleaning the underside for paint. Engine needed a new pan seal and rear main, got that in yesterday. All unnecessary brackets and lines are also gone. Transmission has been painted and awaiting being cut for starter clearance. Torque converter studs also need to be shortened for the extensions to sit correctly on the pads. I will put pictures of that up when its completed, I am cutting for the basic starter as that's what I run due to availability at parts houses.

Note, the atlas adapter measures 3 11/16 and the 6R/magnum pushed all the way together is 4" so a little chop of the magnum's input is needed. I assume this would be the same with any "crawl box" style doubler. Atlas does mention on their site needing their short input as well if you go that route. But I've seen the Magnum work and it'll net me a 4 speed so I'm pumped to get it in. Steven with Offroad Design is a super nice guy and great to work with.

Interested in your C4 and adapter and Dana 20...pm sent...

Progress from today so far.

As I had mentioned before, bellhousing needs to be cut for starter. Was able to knock that out and took pics of the final product, haven't seen others so this will be able to give others an idea of how much you need to do.

Also chopped TC studs.

The step by step here is to:
-thread on orig nuts all the way onto the pads
-cut flush any extra length
-thread on extensions. I opted to use some red loctite here because I don't see these needing to be removed anytime.

This is a good time to also check TC to flexplate holes, make sure you don't need to round them out or modify in any way. Mine fit perfect.

Also bolted up the AA adapter. The instructions call to use the factory bolts for this which I didn't have, the size is M10x40mm. There are 9 holes, make sure one is a socket cap head, it's buried in the hole right under the tailshaft and there's no way to fit a socket into that hole. Blue locktite'd those to hopefully help them from vibrating out, that happened to my c4.


I hope to get this tossed up in place by the end of day to start mocking up the other components.

Trans is in!


So things to note here. With no body lift the 6R will touch a little on the first body crossmember. I trimmed a little and it cleared, will see if I want to open it up further to push the trans higher or not. I'm letting the engine and engine mounts dictate the angle right now and will see if it can be pushed up or not, or just let it rest naturally. Trans pan does hang down below the frame rail I believe just a little as is.

Transfer case is where we are going to get a little tight. Two options here, body lift or cut the floor. I couldn't even get the case onto the output shaft without hitting the second crossmember. I hate body lifts soooo... Removing that section might barely let it fit but I have a feeling I'll be removing more. I haven't quite figured out how to get it up there either, it weighs a ton and the trans jack doesn't go sideways all that well. I'll clock it up as high as I can, I can tell already there will be frame clearance issues so that'll be my limiting factor for now.

Lastly, I'm not going to have to modify the snout of the tcase extension. When the nuts for the pads go on it will pull the TC out just a hair.


Anyway, I took pics.

Have you replaced the body mounts from the originals? They might have compressed with age.

You and Rox may have to start a 1” body lift therapy/support group...

Case is in and clocked as far as it’ll go, stoked it fit between the frame rails it fits great. Floor needed to go away, if you were to do this exact swap I’d say you’d need at least a 2” body lift to avoid it. The magnums shifter is right on top and will contact the floor first. It sits right where my winters shifter and console is so I’ll have no issue covering it back up at the end of the project.

Started to run hard lines for fuel, I’ll finish that and get the plumbing done for the trans cooler, and build the crossmember. It all comes back out after that to clean everything else up and paint. It’s hard to want to remove it all again right after I just got it in there but oh well.

Going to need to order cable shifters for this as well, there’s hardly any room left for anything else.




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Looks great! How's your drive shaft length looking?

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More progress today with the crossmember now mocked up.

Shifters will hopefully be in the next few days so that can get a final mock up as well.




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Great progress, looking good. Been following... Can I ask ya a question? Have you checked clearance for your front driveshaft btw the t-case yoke and your D44 yoke? Stock width front axle correct? I was wondering if your DS will hit the range selector or even the pan at full bump. thanks.

I'm gathering parts to do a similar swap and I run a 1350 CV up front with a 4r70W and it's close...

Progress.




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It’s out of the garage and running! Tweaking and finishes to do, like the massive hole in the floor, but we’re moving under our own power!





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Congrats, crossmember & exhaust routing look good. Keep us updated on how it shifts & drives.

Looks good, one thing you might issues with down the road are your o2 sensors, typically you want to keep them as vertical as possible - when you have them mounted in the bottom of the pipes they typically have issues with condensation.