www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

A few weeks ago, I went out to start my truck for the first time in a month or so. The starter latched and wouldn't stop, even with the key out. Had to hurry and pull both battery cables off. Luckily, the wrench I had stashed with my extra cam sensor in the glove box has a 10mm & and an 8mm end.

Each time I rehooked the batteries, the starter (and motor) started spinning. I crawled through the ice & snow and smacked the starter with a hammer a few times & it stopped. But each time I tried to start the truck, the starter would stick 'on'.

So after some reading, I installed a Nippon Denso gear reduction starter. I had to wait till the weather turned colder, to avoid working in 2" of ice melt water. I figured it was better to lay on ice, than in water.

If anyone is wondering, they are 100% worth the extra money! Spins the motor over 2x as fast. I did have to cut a small section of crossmember out to fit the new starter (a typical problem with the retro fit).

I've compiled a list of things to do to finally get this truck ready to tow. Unfortunately the rear end has a pretty significant howl, and it will probably be getting all new bearings & a new ring & pinon, most likely.

Also
Drain antifreeze, install gauge sensor, new tstat, new outlet hose
EGT gauge
Recheck my glow plugs, its getting hard to start without plugging in
Clean EBP sensor & line
Dive into my air bag sensor problems, the L & R seatbelt retractors are throwing codes.
New windshield & repaint the roof at the same time
And if I have the time, I'll pop the door panels off & see what's up with my door lock actuators ( don't actuate the locks- 1st I'll clean & lube the latches)
& mirror controls (adjust "up", despite pusihg 'down', 'left' & 'right'- so its probably just the switch)

There is a Superchips tuner available for my truck through a local marketplace page on Facebook. $50.

I don't want to do a bunch of upgrading, just keep it reliable. I know you can mess stuff up when you don't know what you are doing. Is this something I should grab?

I dont remember if your truck is an auto? If it is I'd avoid it as many have been known to toast the auto.

My truck is the manual 6 speed.

I've never looked into any of these, because I didn't plan any 'upgrades'. So I don't even know if it would be beneficial.

Thats the flash tuner Casa has. Not sure otherwise if it makes a difference on his OBS or not. One thing I dont like is they are not switch on the fly. Thats why I went with a chip from DP. I can change tunes just cruisin down the highway.

Gunni, let me see if I can turn off the VIN association on my superchips. If I can, it is yours for the cost of the ride.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Gunni, let me see if I can turn off the VIN association on my superchips. If I can, it is yours for the cost of the ride.

Wow, thanks. Let me know if it unlocks. I read a little about it and sounds like it would be ok with a stock motor.

I never had any issues unless running the high HP tune. And that was likely only because of my gearing. Still need to fix that. Among other things.

Big thing is to watch EGT's. anything over 1250-1300 (pre turbo) and you will start to melt some pistons.

I'm planning an EGT gauge before towing the Bronco, so I've got some time to get that done. Unless its towing my non-op Bronco to my shop for some unforeseen reason. And I think its safe for the 10 block drive. LOL

I've had the off-the-shelf vanilla Superchips tuner and it does wake the truck up. I don't remember the tunes it came with, but they were all pretty safe. Then a friend of mine wanted me to run some of his, also a superchips device, but with custom tunes. I liked his stuff as well.

I probably put 80k miles on the truck with it tuned. Not one issue I had could have been related to the tuner. I'd do it again given the chance.

A word on the EGT's...don't lug the motor. That is what will make them skyrocket!

What is everyone running for tires and gears in their SDs/PowerStrokes?

I'm obviously way undergeared @3.73/37".
In stock configuration (3.73/265/75/16) I would be turning 2109 at 75mph.
4.11/265 would put me in the neighborhood of 2323 at 75mph.

Sooo, I am thinking of doing a gear swap to AT LEAST 4.56, which should put me around 2205 @75. I figure at 4.56 I can safely go down to a 35" tire, if desired, and not be limited on the highway. And 4.56/35" puts me at 2331 @75mph, and very close to the 4.11/265 stock configuration.

I'm also considering a 4.88/37" combo, putting me at 2360@75mph, but this would keep me at 37" tires. 4.88/35" would put me at 2495@75mph and I'm just not cool with running that high.

So, diesel dudes, whatcha running and how are you liking your set ups?

Im still on 3.73's and 285's(33's) and think it needs lower gears.

ZOSO wrote:Im still on 3.73's and 285's(33's) and think it needs lower gears.

You're basically where I would be with 4.30s. How are your MPGs in a stock tune? And how does it feel towing?

akaFrankCastle wrote:

ZOSO wrote:Im still on 3.73's and 285's(33's) and think it needs lower gears.

You're basically where I would be with 4.30s. How are your MPGs in a stock tune? And how does it feel towing?

Feels fine towing. Doesnt matter what tune Im in, i get about 14-15mpg mixed. Can get 16-18 all highway if I keep the rpm less than 2k. Anything over 2k and it seems like mileage starts to drop.

513 mi tank netted me 17 flat. Mostly highway though.

Yeah my experience was to target 2000rpms for your highway speeds. Mine was pretty good with 3.73 and 285. It was am improvement over the stock size.

Last week I had something very weird happen. I started the truck to leave for work. Backed out of the driveway just fine. When I put it in drive the motor lugged down and died. I started it back up and once again when put in drive it lugged down and died. Like the torque converter was locked. So then I started it back up and this time i put it in reverse. Backed up 10' then went to drive. Been fine since.

So, I''m finally getting to a position where i have some time to work on the fleet instead of the house! I did a little carb work on the 66 and thats running well so I'm turning my sights to the F350. Here is where I'm at. I have a riff raff compressor wheel, riff raff up pipes and an early 99 intercooler setup all sitting in the garage waiting for me to do some install work. Recently, I have had increasing problems with a lack of power when its cold. It can't get out of its own way until it gets up to temp. Once its warm it runs pretty well. I have also had an occasion where I was towing in hot weather and it lost a lot of power. The fuel was very low at the time and the problem disappeared with a full tank of diesel. I disconnected the EBPV and it helped but did not cure the cold /power issue. I am about to pull the trigger on EBPV delete pedestal and install the up pipes and composer wheel. I need to get some new intercooler boots before I can start on that upgrade but they are currently out of stock so it waits a couple weeks. Now here is the real dilemma, I'm wanting to pull the trigger on some injectors. I drove an OBS F250 that a guy I work with has and it has Baby swamps injectors and a custom chip. Holly crap! It made my truck feel like a school bus! Now , his truck also has half the miles that mine does so that might have some effect as well. I'm rocking 232K by the way. My goal is to be able to pull the 5th wheel or car trailer over I-70 without getting passed by a moped. The popular injector choices seem to be Baby swamps or full force injectors. Both will require custom tunes. Currently I'm leaning to Full force because I can get them from Clay at riff Raff. I have never purchased anything from swamps. My steps should be ( I think ) 1) up pipes, pedestal and composer wheel 2) intercooler and upgrade tranny cooler while its all apart. 3) Injectors and custom tunes.
Something else I have noticed is that the Black Smoke factor has increased especially under hard acceleration and while towing.
My reading tells me that my injectors are probably pretty worn based on my millage.

Is this a reasonable plan that I have laid out? Any advice from those more diesel savvy than I? I'm not wanting a race truck, just a reliable solid puller. Also, I need to get moving on this because I need to drive it to Sacramento in November.

What say you 7.3 guru's?

Lots and f smoke is not enough air too much fuel. Your turbo may be tired. While you have it out get it rebuilt.

When you say rebuild, are you talking about new O rings and gaskets or more in depth than that? Maybe I should be looking for air leaks at the Y pipe?


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casadejohnson wrote:When you say rebuild, are you talking about new O rings and gaskets or more in depth than that? Maybe I should be looking for air leaks at the Y pipe?


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New bushing and seals if there is play in the shaft. You may have an air leak at the motor on those couplings.

I'll check those couplings tonight. Once I have the new intercooler spider on there and all new boots on it, if that's the problem that'll take care of it. I have the factory service manual's for that truck so I should be able to find out what the tolerances should be for the turbo


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Give Addicted Offroad a call as he's done a few injectors on his rigs and has good experience with different companies. Or you could find his build thread on CO4x4

Jesus_man wrote:Give Addicted Offroad a call as he's done a few injectors on his rigs and has good experience with different companies. Or you could find his build thread on CO4x4

He built my Bronco cage so I know him pretty well. I have read his thread several times and I think he used Rosewood for injectors. Lots of older threads say rosewood has good prices on injectors but the prices seem to be on parr with everyone else now. Just the same, I need to contact him because I have some questions about his intercooler pipe routing.
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Edit
So I just went back and read Scotty's thread on Pirate and it took me 2 1/2 hours to do it! It always makes me a little sad when he sells that OBS dually. The good news is that my plans are very similar to what he did only I'll have the advantage of a non stock turbo wheel so I should spool a little better. I'm getting a little excited about doing this project, save for the part where I don't have a garage tall enough to accommodate the truck yet so this will all be happening in the great outdoors.

ZOSO wrote:Lots and f smoke is not enough air too much fuel. Your turbo may be tired. While you have it out get it rebuilt.

Advice taken. I ordered the Garrett Rebuild kit. How does that go again? Something worth doing is worth doing right.

Just so I have something else to do, I also ordered a rebuild kit for my Power Steering pump on the 74 Bronco. If I fix that , I'll have two vehicles that I can drive while the Truck is under the knife.

You've seen his build thread on the new PSD?
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthre ... ed-tow-pig

You can tackle that thread in 30 minutes or less!

Jesus_man wrote:You've seen his build thread on the new PSD?
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthre ... ed-tow-pig

You can tackle that thread in 30 minutes or less!

I did read that one as well. Scotty puts together some nice vehicles thats for sure!

I have been reading about Custom tunes for this project for a while now and I'm at a cross roads when it comes to the best way to approach this. It seems like there are too many options out there! I really like that some of the new chips are designed so that you can download new tunes to them without having to send the chip out to be re burned. That Hydra chip that scotty used in his new build seems like the way to go.

I have decided that i need to step up my timeline on the injectors and supporting tunes. My truck had previously burned almost no oil but with recent drivability issues, I have been running a few tanks with fuel injector cleaner. Now that I have run the cleaner, I seem to be getting some oil backing up into my fuel bowl. If my reading is correct, this is not uncommon with worn injectors. I was actually pretty surprised to find that I was down a couple quarts of oil when I checked it last night. I'm not sure how much of that was leaked out vs how much was pushed into the fuel system but based on the lack of puddles under the truck I'm guessing it made its way to the fuel.

On another note, while I rolled under the truck in search of leaks, i discovered that my freshly rebuilt rear diff is leaking from the pinion seal. I thought it was from the diff cover but I was wrong. I should have never paid to have that work done! If your looking for a guy in greeley to rebuild your rearend, I can tell you who NOT to go to!

For now I added a couple pints and called it good till I can deal with it later. One thing I miss about my old house is a concrete driveway. Leaks on a crushed Granite driveway have a way of going unnoticed while the ones that take place on concrete are obvious. If you don't notice the leak on your drive someone in your home owners association will notice it for you and send you a letter!

Park on a piece of cardboard.

If the pinion seal is leaking don't let it go too long, it's a good indication that the bearing is out of adjustment.