www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

I ran Schaeffer's oil in mine and installed a bypass filter system to extend the life of the oil changes.

Buy cycling the battery a few times will help dramatically. If you're worried about the batteries at all, turn everything else off like fans, radio etc.

How about Oil filters? I normally use the good old Motorcraft 1995 in mine. In fact, I just put in 15 fresh quarts of Delo and a new filter this evening. I'm getting ready to leave for Sacramento on Friday night or Saturday Morning. I still need to replace my upper radiator hose, hook my replacement horn up, and replace my fuel filter before I go. I'm going out empty in the F350 so my kidneys will probably get a work out but I'll probably have a thousand + pounds in the back for the return trip.

Just a few notes I keep in the phone for trips to the parts store.

Super Duty services parts list
Wix oil 51734
Wix bypass 51050
Dorman oil drain plug gasket 65268
Rotella 15 quarts 15w40
Front axle 75w90w 5.9pt
Rear 85w140w 8pt
ATF mercon V 20qt (17.7)
Wix fuel 33818
Coolant filtration kit 89019
Coolant filter 89070, napagold 4070
Power steering
Brake fluid
Heavy duty extended life coolant
International fleetrite, shell rotella elc, cat elc, chevron delo elc, peak final charge, prestone heavy duty elc, zerex extreme heavy duty
4 gallons
20 gallons distiller water
Thermostat gasket f4tz-8255-a
Thermostat f6tz-8575-ea
Thermostat housing f81z-8260-ca
Upper radiator hose f81z-8260-ca
Lower radiator hose yc32-8286-ce
Degas bottle cap f6dz-8100-a

I was using a Mobil 1 filter. Can't recall number but saw a test somewhere that rated it really well!

I just run the motorcraft oil filter.

All I've ever ran was the FL1995. I also had the FS2500 oil bypass set up on the truck.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Just a few notes I keep in the phone for trips to the parts store.

Super Duty services parts list
Wix oil 51734
Wix bypass 51050
Dorman oil drain plug gasket 65268
Rotella 15 quarts 15w40
Front axle 75w90w 5.9pt
Rear 85w140w 8pt
ATF mercon V 20qt (17.7)
Wix fuel 33818
Coolant filtration kit 89019
Coolant filter 89070, napagold 4070
Power steering
Brake fluid
Heavy duty extended life coolant
International fleetrite, shell rotella elc, cat elc, chevron delo elc, peak final charge, prestone heavy duty elc, zerex extreme heavy duty
4 gallons
20 gallons distiller water
Thermostat gasket f4tz-8255-a
Thermostat f6tz-8575-ea
Thermostat housing f81z-8260-ca
Upper radiator hose f81z-8260-ca
Lower radiator hose yc32-8286-ce
Degas bottle cap f6dz-8100-a

Isn't there a camp of 7.3 folks that recommend a higher temp thermostat? I think I have read that on the forums several times. Is your part number for the stock standard thermostat or something different?

casadejohnson wrote:
Isn't there a camp of 7.3 folks that recommend a higher temp thermostat? I think I have read that on the forums several times. Is your part number for the stock standard thermostat or something different?

Not that I am aware of. I don't know of any benefits of running a higher temp stay than stock. These things get hot enough as it is.

The part number from my list should be for the bone stock, 1996-2003 7.3 thermostat.

akaFrankCastle wrote:

casadejohnson wrote:
Isn't there a camp of 7.3 folks that recommend a higher temp thermostat? I think I have read that on the forums several times. Is your part number for the stock standard thermostat or something different?

Not that I am aware of. I don't know of any benefits of running a higher temp stay than stock. These things get hot enough as it is.

The part number from my list should be for the bone stock, 1996-2003 7.3 thermostat.

If you search for 203 thermostat, you will see the arguments for and against the change. Stock is 195 degree and the 203/205 degree units are supposed to be was was used in the international versions. claims are made ranging from more heat in the cab, to better fuel economy, to lower emissions. maybe its all BS.

casadejohnson wrote:
If you search for 203 thermostat, you will see the arguments for and against the change. Stock is 195 degree and the 203/205 degree units are supposed to be was was used in the international versions. claims are made ranging from more heat in the cab, to better fuel economy, to lower emissions. maybe its all BS.

I'll have to do some reading tomorrow during lunch.

I fail to see how 8-10* could cause that much of an impact though.

My truck is like a damn blast furnace once warmed up, so more cab heat will only cause me to look like this on my drive to work.



Better fuel economy? Running 10* warmer is going to make an 8,000lb brick get better mpgs?

And lower emissions? 'Merica? You're trying to stifle that freedom cloud coming from my truck?

But seriously, I'm interested in seeing the for/against points. I'll dig in tomorrow.

akaFrankCastle wrote:

casadejohnson wrote:
If you search for 203 thermostat, you will see the arguments for and against the change. Stock is 195 degree and the 203/205 degree units are supposed to be was was used in the international versions. claims are made ranging from more heat in the cab, to better fuel economy, to lower emissions. maybe its all BS.

I'll have to do some reading tomorrow during lunch.

I fail to see how 8-10* could cause that much of an impact though.

My truck is like a damn blast furnace once warmed up, so more cab heat will only cause me to look like this on my drive to work.



Better fuel economy? Running 10* warmer is going to make an 8,000lb brick get better mpgs?

And lower emissions? 'Merica? You're trying to stifle that freedom cloud coming from my truck?

But seriously, I'm interested in seeing the for/against points. I'll dig in tomorrow.

I agree, it doesn't really add up in my mind either but there are a bunch of people who swear its the thing to do. Probably the same guys that bought into the Parachute pants craze of 84.

Or the same ones that feel you must change the oil in the HPOP or you are destroying your engine.

I think there has to be a problem with my truck.

Last night the low was around 10*. Right now the temp is 28* and I couldn't get the truck to start. I cycled the glow plugs for about 1 minute and tried to start it. Did that about 3 times before the batteries were noticibly weaker. Got white smoke, so I know its got fuel.

I know the diesel treatment will help, but that is the only thing I can really change at this point. I'm going to fill up & add treatment this afternoon. But I can't imagine it would help that much.

Batteries are charging and ok, but not "new".

I'm afraid of taking it hunting next week.

How's your glow plug system? New plugs? What about the relay? Also, you've checked the harnesses and done the .50 cent mod?

If all of these are good to go, you might be looking at an injector issue. This is almost the exact same situation I am in. I'll be pulling my injectors and putting new O rings on them in the next week in the hopes that will fix the issue. If not, the used injectors I am buying tomorrow will be used as cores for a new set of stage 1s.

Brand new glow plugs, brand new International/Ford valve covers & harness, 200a relay (1 yr old).

Any good links I can read about the cold start/injector issues? Unfortunately, I don't have the time to mess with injectors before hunting season. Do you have the injector removal tool?

There is no injector removal tool for 7.3s. Simply remove too bolts and yank that bad boy out.

I'll see what I can find with regard to injector cold starts.

Thats good about the tool.

I just did a 'buzz' test with my OBDII/Car Gauge Pro program, and it looks like I have more than a few bad injectors. Only 3 buzzed loudly, 5 were very quiet.

I don't want to upgrade, necessarily, any recommendations for new or rebuilt injectors?

I recommend buying Full Force Diesel injectors through Riff Raff. A full set of rebuilt stock injectors will cost you 1100.

Chad check the hpop pressure when cranking. HPOP may be weak also. But if you are getting a weak buzz test that tells you a lot.

ZOSO wrote:Chad check the hpop pressure when cranking. HPOP may be weak also. But if you are getting a weak buzz test that tells you a lot.

Last time I checked it, it was fine. I tried again this afternoon, but it was my first time using the Torque program since my phone was reset & I had to reinstal Torque. It didn't act right. After I set it up properly, it was at 500 psi- 1000psi+ while running. But I didn't check it at start up.

I plugged it in for 30 minutes and it started up fine. It was just like this before I swapped glow plugs & valve cover gaskets/harnesses. So I'm pretty sure its my injectors.

Good article on injectors:
https://swampsdiesel.com/files/7.3LInje ... nostic.pdf

edit: after reading this, I realize a synthetic oil MIGHT help the cold start situation, but it would be a band-aid. I'm scared to trust a band-aid next week.

I filled up today & added winter fuel treatment. Just for shits & giggles, I'll try to fire it up tomorrow morning. But I don't expect it to start. I'm probably going to have to borrow the girlfriend's Nissan Frontier for hunting season. Her tires are terrible in the mud, but it beats being stranded. Might look for a set of cheapo chains for her truck.

Surprisingly, it started pretty easily this morning at 12*. I did fill up yesterday & add winter fuel treatment.

I let the glow plugs run for a full 2 minutes & cranked. It didn't start, and I wasn't watching my Torque program closely to see my HPOP numbers. So I gave it a quick 2nd try (no waiting on glow plugs) and it started right up.

BTW my HPOP numbers hit 1800 psi while cranking, so it seems fine.

I'm thinking about swapping out to synthetic oil & putting 2 new batteries in it. I know they are band-aids but they are projects that will help, and that I can get done by Tuesday night, before I hunt Wednesday morning. Or I can leave it as-is and run it. Its a hard decision to throw a $400 band-aid at a truck I know needs $1100 in parts to get it running right.

Do you have a generator? If so, take it hunting and when you're about to leave fire it up and plug the truck in.

Yes, I have a small suitcase 1200w generator. I also have a decent battery jump pack, I'm planning on taking too. The genni can charge the batteries or run (barely) the block heater. I think IF it doesn't start, I can plug it in for 45 minutes & warm things up.

I have my Torque ap set & and running, so I think watching the engine oil temp each morning & trying to start it, will give me a good baseline. This morning the ap said my EOT was 26*. The weather forecast doesn't look too cold, for PM temps. So I'm starting to feel a little better about this.

I think I'll program the SPOT beakon message to send coordinates & the message "F'n truck won't start". LOL.

Sorry Chad. I hope you can get this sorted out, but more important, you get a nice elk and are able to bring it back home without issues.

Jesus_man wrote:Sorry Chad. I hope you can get this sorted out, but more important, you get a nice elk and are able to bring it back home without issues.

Its just aggravating. I thought I had done what I needed to get the truck ready for this week. I had no idea injectors had so much to do with cold starts. Wish I knew this a few weeks ago (or it had gotten colder before now, LOL).

I think I'll be alright, I picked up some of the Rotella synthetic 5-15 yesterday & I'll swap it out tonight. After reading the article above, I know it will help things.

After this week, it really doesn't matter, I can almost always plug the truck in for an hour before I need it.

EDIT: Started again at 12*. 1.5 glow plug cycles, conventional oil. Forgot my phone when I started it, so I don't know the EOT.

Just picked up a set of 8 injectors from a kid in Pueblo. $100.00

Nice score.

Tonight before I changed my oil, I did a Buzz test, with warm oil. There was no audible difference between any of my injectors. They all sounded good. When the oil was cold, 5 injectors sounded bad. Tomorrow morning Ill do another test with cold synthetic oil.

The seller of the injectors bought a truck out west and was driving it back to Pueblo. Coming over one of the passes an unknown to him injector cup leak dumped coolant into the cylinder, hydro locking the motor and cracking the block.

He told me they have around 190k on them, but looking at the o-rings, I think at least 7 of them are remains with far less than that.

Gunnibronco wrote:Nice score.

Tonight before I changed my oil, I did a Buzz test, with warm oil. There was no audible difference between any of my injectors. They all sounded good. When the oil was cold, 5 injectors sounded bad. Tomorrow morning Ill do another test with cold synthetic oil.

I think that just goes to reinforce the sheet from Swamps. Warm oil makes them run just fine. Cold oil shows their true colors.

On cooler mornings, does it ever seen sluggish and hard to get out of its own way? Lots of black smoke but no forward motion or very little? And then, after about 5 miles of driving it's like the truck gets kicked in the ass and it is back to normal?

akaFrankCastle wrote:

Gunnibronco wrote:Nice score.

Tonight before I changed my oil, I did a Buzz test, with warm oil. There was no audible difference between any of my injectors. They all sounded good. When the oil was cold, 5 injectors sounded bad. Tomorrow morning Ill do another test with cold synthetic oil.

I think that just goes to reinforce the sheet from Swamps. Warm oil makes them run just fine. Cold oil shows their true colors.

On cooler mornings, does it ever seen sluggish and hard to get out of its own way? Lots of black smoke but no forward motion or very little? And then, after about 5 miles of driving it's like the truck gets kicked in the ass and it is back to normal?

Yes to everything you said above.

I just thought it was typical for a diesel. I knew they had to warm up more than a gas motor.