Well the next hurdle appears to be the ECU. Back before I picked up the motor, the guy (the owner) at Carquest gave me a price on an ECU and said it didn't matter what ECU I turned in for the core. Now, he realized that there are no Mustang ECUs available, and unless we happen to get lucky, I need to send in an ECU to rebuild. Sucks, I paid $50 to buy a SD computer that is useless now.

Since I need/want an ECU for a manual transmission, I'm thinking the only car w/a manual was the Mustang. Cougars, Tbirds, Crown Vics, & Lincolns all came with autos only I bet. So I think I'm not going to find many "other" choices for ECU. If there is another choice I can bring to Carquest I'd appreciate it. Ebay seems the only place for Mustang ECUs. Mustang forums?

Viper stated above that the auto ECU may slow the RPM drop between shifts, is anyone running an auto ECU w/a manual trans & having luck or problems?

Chad

Advance Auto listed the Cardone 78-4352 as available (rebuilt 9AL), and had by far the best price, about $85.00 + $45.00 core. It took my order & my money, says it should ship in a few days, we'll see. They had a 15% off code, so I got it for about $120. But, I screwed myself out of a $50.00 coupon, because I didn't have an account set up before making the purchase. I'll send my SD computer back and see if they credit the core charge, it can't hurt.

O'rielys & Autozone both had much higher prices by $50.00.

There is always one more question.

What size air filter are you guys running? p/n?

thanks
Chad

I found a killer deal on the "newest" kind of air filter, it will be a few years before we find out why paper filters are better than these! The AEM dry filters are supposed to be better than any oiled filter, especially in the dust that most of Colorado is made of. I had read some bad things about K&N and was prepared to go with S&B filters, but stumbled on the AEM stuff & a link to this guy on ebay. He's selling 9"x4" AEM cone filters for $20.00 shipped, these are $45.00-$55.00 filters most places. Its close out/first come first served.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... RT:US:1123

He also has 14"x3" for the carb guys.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-14X3-DRYFLO ... 059wt_1103

He has some other interesting stuff at good deals, but nothing I "need" right now.

I bought 2, one for the Bronco & one for the 300C. Its exactly the size needed for a very cool DIY CAI kit for the 300, and I've got a 3"x4" flexible adapter that looks like it reduced from the Explorer air box to the hard plastic elbow/runner. Hope it works its a great price.

Chad - I agree that the AEM dry-flow is probably the best out there, at least for the price. I have one on my superduty and need to get one on my bronco...Trick is to make sure you clean them regularly. K&N and AEM got together on a cleaning solution. I called AEM and this is what they said to use.
http://www.amazon.com/99-0624-Synthetic ... B004I9JTUG

I read their web site & it said use their cleaner, or "a mild multipurpose cleaner".

Looks like mine have already shipped from the Ebay seller, so they are apparently legit.

Chad

I think everything is accounted for and either on its way, or on my list for an order with the local Carquest. The ECU & C***y heater fan arrived today. Much more by the end of the week.

I ordered the unloomed RJM harness (since I"m going to move the TFI, and rewire the truck soon). I also realized the Bauman plug in and OBA/AC are very easily added, especially since I'm going to replace the wiring soon.

I found a couple shielded sections of wire in the Explorer harness I have and will probably try to use it in the TFI relocation wiring. There is a pack of 3 wires, I haven't pulled it out all the way, but hopefully its long enough.

I'm going to start cleaning up all the Explorer stuff soon & doing what I can to my truck before the big swap starts.

Chad

I'm trying to rebuild my injectors with the instructions on fordfuelinjetion but cannot get the screen out of the first injector I tried. I threaded a screw into the screen. But when I pull, the screen won't budge. I'm pulling about as hard as I can. I'm worried about damaging the injector.

Any advice?

Should I soak the injectors in cleaner before trying to remove the screens?

Chad

I use an easy-out to pull the screens. Screws didn't seem to work for me.

Thanks, I'll try that. I pulled a little harder, and the screw broke loose from the plastic screen cage, but the screen is still stuck.

How much space is there under the screen, before you hit something important?

Chad

Everything I have read shows using 3/8" fuel line to feed the EFI & 5/16" to return to the tank. Years ago, I tried a Holley Pro-Jection, and ran 3/8" & 5/16" steel lines.

The LP pump I got has 5/16" barbs, but they could easily be swapped to 3/8".

The BCB accumulator I have has 3/8" barbs for the inlet & outlet. These could also be easily replaced.

The E2000 truck/van HP fuel pump has 5/16" barbs in & out. The inlet barb is part of the pump and not replaceable, the outlet barb on the HP pump looks special (uses an oring). I'm betting that I won't find a 3/8" barb to fit.

The sending unit in the tank is 3/8".

So, what should I do? Run as much 3/8" as I can, but run 5/16" from the accumlator to the HP pump & then use a 3/8x5/16 adapter barb to step back up to 3/8 after the HP pump?

Chad

So I pulled the trigger today & started installing stuff on my truck. I got the LP pump, accumulator, & HP pump all mounted. At the same time I pulled a bunch of stuff out, including my old 6 way valve. I'm just going to run off my main tank & use a cheap LP pump & intermittent switch to fill the main tank from the aux tank. I also pulled off my mechanical fuel pump & put a block off plate on. I need to pick up some regular 5/16" fuel line and a fitting to adapt the accumulator to the 5/16" inlet on the HP pump & a 5/16x3/8 adapter to step the HP pump back up to my steel lines.

What effect would using a shorter filter have at the accumulator? Less "buffer" for running the pump dry, is my guess. I got a large BCB accumulator from a CCB member, and was wondering if I could swap a shorter filter on, so it doesn't hang below the frame. I built a bracket to lift it as high as possible & its not bad, but I'd like to see it above the frame rail. Anyone know the number for a shorter filter?

I also swapped on the Explorer valve covers, and have a couple questions. The Explorer filler neck is too tall & going to hit my hood.

What function does the connection between the oil fill tube & the throttle body serve? Can it be eliminated?

Is it important (for function, not EPA)to keep the crankcase system sealed except to the intake, or can I use a vented oil fill cap? What have you all done?

I like the Explorer oil fill cap, but if I cut the fill tube down to fit my hood, I think I'll loose the fitting to attach the fill tube to the throttle body.

Chad

I think my York OBA pump is in the way, I'm keeping my stock v-belt set up, with not-stock York pump. It is mounted on the front/top/passenger side head.

I'm thinking of cutting the tube down, more than you probably did, and rewelding the reducer & t/b hose barb on. If the t/b hose isn't needed, I'd rather just cap it at the t/b & loose the hose barb when I shorten the fill tube.

You should be able to use a shorter filter... I don't have the part number though. You prob would have to cut the tube down at the ACC. Keep the tube between valve cover and TB

Short filter is Napa 3382. Might need to shorten internal tube. Yes, less fuel buffer but it's been plenty for me.

You need to keep the tube from the valve cover to the throttle body. It allows fresh and metered air into the crankcase. A breather would let unmetered air in. Seal all other holes except PCV. Doesn't matter in a SD system but it does matter in mass air.

Sweet guys, thanks. I wasn't sure if I was remembering info from my '06 300C (SD) or what I've read about MA. I knew I had read that keeping one system sealed was important.

I almost didn't swap valve covers, but now I'm glad I did. It won't be hard to make the Explorer fill neck work.

Thanks for the filter number. I'll run the long filter till summer, then run the shorter one once I hit the trail.

Thanks
Chad

I was putting my new dizzy together & the new TFI module says to coat the back with the provided grease, except there was no grease provided. Is dielectric grease ok?

I'll worry about remote locating it after everything is running. KISS

Chad

If I remember correctly the grease is used for heat transfer so I don't see why it won't work.

You want heat conductive grease, not dielectric grease for that. Radio Shack has heat sink grease.

Best Buy or similar places will have it as well. They sell it in little tubes for use on computer CPU heatsinks.

Thanks, I'll go by Radio Shack & see what they have, we've got a computer store or two here, but no Best Buy or other big box electronics store.

I got my 02 bungs welded into my exhaust, and the sensors installed. That took removing/reinstalling the exhaust system 3 times so that took most my day. But I've started working on the throttle body bell crank & throttle cable & air filter set up, with the intake/tb assembled outside the truck. I also think I've accounted for all the brass fittings/adapters I need to assemble the fuel system. Just the brass fittings is getting expensive (like my York OBA). I've gotta have $150.00 in brass in my truck.

I removed the HP pump & accumulator today & ran fuel hose & 12v to the LP pump. The truck is up and running on the LP pump & carb. We have a busy week at the shop, and I can't have my truck blocking a bay. Its mobile, and safe, so it can run this way till I have a couple days free to finish it up.

There are a couple projects I can work on with the truck running. But, I think the next steps are to install the intake and wire it, and of course reinstall the HP pump,accumulator, and the fuel lines. The next steps will shut the truck down, till the swap is complete, so I have to make sure I've got the time to dedicate to it. Hopefully that will be next weekend, we'll see.

I'm wondering a few things about the hose connections at the throttle body & the vac fittings on the intake.

I think I saw somewhere that Viperwolf turned the hose connection at the throttle body to better line it up with the oil fill neck. How is the best way to turn it? heat?

Also I will only use vacuum for the PCV & fuel reg. Is there a way to remove the extra hard vac lines & cap the holes? Everything is clean right now, so I don't think I want to tap the extra ports for plugs, but I would consider removing & using a plug & some adhesive, or something like that. I can always use vac line rubber caps, but those deteriorate & can cause leaks, I'd like something more reliable.

Can I run the PCV line into the other large vac port in the back of the intake & run a 3/8" plug into the original PCV port?

Chad

I just grabbed the tube with some pliers and turned it. It isn't that tight.

I tapped and plugged some extra ports. You might be able to solder a copper cap on them. I don't like the rubber caps either.

I recommend running the PCV to the port that is more common to all the intake runners. It could lean out a cylinder otherwise.

Great info, thanks.

Chad

Well, the snow really sucks this year, so I won't be fighting the Xmas crowds on the slopes this weekend. And since our shop will be "empty" for 3 days, I'm going to try to do my EFI swap this weekend. I've been super busy with work, a side job on a Scout door(trade for a Baikal 12g O/U), and my house remodel, so all the little projects I could have done, aren't done. Hopefully 3 days will be enough, I'll probably start tomorrow PM. Wish me luck, I think I'm going to need it.

Chad

Good luck Chad. Hope with the days off you can get your swap mostly done.

I stopped home to get the torque sequence for the intake, here are some pics of the progress, I'll explain later:
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg78 ... fi%20swap/

Here are a couple pics from a few weeks ago, while test fitting the accumulator, fuel pumps, and installing the O2 bungs:




Here is how I hooked up my PCV valve, this port seemed more centrally located in the intake


This is where the PCV used to run


Here are a couple pics of my modified throttle bell crank & a homemade throtle cable bracket, with the stock Explorer throttle cable.

Here is my shortened & repainted oil fill neck, I removed about 1.25" and then welded the reduced end back on.


I drilled out the ACT fitting in the Explorer air plumbing, and used an adhesive to glue on the fitting from a SHO air box I grabbed. I'm going to use the SHO ACT sensor, because it uses the fitting included on the RJM harness, the Explorer ACT does not.


Here is a thing of beauty, a NOS FoMoCo dizzy w/new TFI (and heat sink grease)


Today, I removed my old intake, carb, dizzy, ignition, gas pedal & linkage, etc. Along with the radiator & fan.


I cleaned everything up and installed the lower intake, fuel injectors, fuel rail, tstat & housing, and heater hose. I cut off the Explorer heater tubing, and flared it.